What Are Mortgage Points?
Mortgage discount points are fees you pay the lender at closing in exchange for a lower interest rate, a practice also called buying down the rate. One point costs 1% of the loan amount, so on a $340,000 loan, one point costs $3,400. Many lenders let you buy fractions of a point or several points. The trade is simple: more cash up front in return for a smaller monthly payment for as long as you keep the loan.
How Much Does a Point Lower Your Rate?
A common rule of thumb is that each point lowers your rate by about 0.25 percentage points, but that is only a rough guide. The actual reduction depends on the lender, the loan program, and market conditions on the day you lock, and it can be smaller or larger. The only reliable number is the one on a lender's quote. When you compare offers, ask each lender for pricing with zero points and with one point on the same day, so you can see exactly what each point buys.
A Worked Example
Take a $340,000, 30-year fixed loan at 7.03% with no points. The monthly principal and interest payment is about $2,269. Paying one point costs $3,400 and, at a 0.25-point reduction, lowers the rate to 6.78%. The new payment is about $2,212, a saving of roughly $57 a month. These figures leave out property taxes, insurance, and PMI, which do not change when you buy points, so the comparison stays focused on the part of the payment that points actually affect.
How to Calculate Your Break-Even Point
The break-even point is the month when buying the points starts to come out ahead. The most accurate way to find it counts interest: it is the first month when the cost of the points plus the interest you have paid is no more than the interest you would have paid without them. In the example that is month 48, or 4 years. The simpler method divides the cost of the points by the monthly savings: $3,400 divided by $57 is about 60 months. That is later because it ignores the principal the lower rate pays down faster. Keep the loan longer than the break-even and the points come out ahead. Sell or refinance sooner and you have paid more than you saved. You can run the same math with your own loan amount, rate, and number of points in our Mortgage Points Calculator. To put a lender's no-points quote next to its one-point quote, use our Mortgage Comparison Calculator.
Why Break-Even Isn't the Whole Story
The simple payback method only counts the lower payment. A lower rate also means more of each payment goes to principal, so your balance falls faster. In the example above, after seven years you would have saved about $4,777 in payments, and your remaining balance would be about $1,219 lower than without points. Subtract the $3,400 cost and the net benefit is about $2,596, compared with $1,377 counting payments alone. Timing still matters: after three years you would be about $838 behind, while after five years you would be about $878 ahead.
How Long Will You Actually Keep the Loan?
Points pay off only for as long as you keep this particular loan, not the house. Selling, refinancing into a new loan, or paying the mortgage off early all end the savings, and the money you spent on points does not come back. That makes your realistic holding period the most important input in the decision. Think about how likely a move is in the next several years, whether rates might fall far enough to make refinancing attractive, and whether you plan to pay the loan down faster. If you are unsure, test a few different holding periods and see how much the result changes.
When Buying Points Makes Sense
Points make the most financial sense when you expect to keep the loan well past the break-even point, when you still have cash left after your down payment, closing costs, and emergency reserves, and when the lender's quote shows a meaningful rate reduction for each point. Over a long holding period the savings add up: in the example above, keeping the loan for the full 30 years would save about $17,071 after the cost of the point.
When to Skip Points
Avoid buying points if you may move or refinance within a few years, if the break-even period is longer than you expect to keep the loan, or if paying for them would leave you short on reserves. The same cash can also go toward a larger down payment, which lowers your balance and every payment, and on a conventional loan can reduce or remove PMI. Compare both uses of the money before deciding.
Lender Credits: Points in Reverse
Points work in reverse, too. Many lenders offer lender credits, sometimes called negative points, where you accept a higher interest rate and the lender pays part of your closing costs in return. That lowers the cash you need at closing but raises your monthly payment for the life of the loan. Credits tend to suit borrowers who expect to sell or refinance fairly soon, which is the opposite of the case for buying points.
Points on a Refinance
Points work the same way on a refinance. You pay at closing for a lower rate on the new loan, and the break-even math is identical. The difference is that a refinance already has its own closing costs to recover, so adding points pushes back the point at which the whole refinance pays for itself.
Origination Points vs. Discount Points
Do not confuse discount points with origination points. Origination points are a lender fee for processing your loan, and they do not reduce your rate. Always ask your lender to itemize points on the Loan Estimate so you know exactly what you are paying for and whether it is optional.
How to Compare Offers
On a Loan Estimate, discount points appear in the Origination Charges section, shown as a percentage of the loan amount along with their dollar cost. When comparing lenders, look at the rate and the points together, since a lower rate with more points is not automatically the better deal. Line up offers with the same loan amount and lock date, work out the break-even for each, and weigh it against how long you realistically expect to keep the loan.